EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)
EditorialMark Noguchi, center, with his family making pork-stuffed wontons for saimin on the island of Oahu in Mānoa, Hawaii, June 15, 2023. (Mike Ito/The New York Times)