EditorialSpecialties cooked by Martha Soledad include, clockwise from left, chicken in a mole de rancho, roasted jalape?os, a salsa of roasted jalape?o, and tortillas dusted with toasted, dried chiltepin powder and doused in manteca, or lard, in Veracruz, Mexico, in May 2023. (Adrian Wilson/The New York Times)
EditorialSpecialties cooked by Martha Soledad include, clockwise from left, chicken in a mole de rancho, roasted jalape?os, a salsa of roasted jalape?o, and tortillas dusted with toasted, dried chiltepin powder and doused in manteca, or lard, in Veracruz, Mexico, in May 2023. (Adrian Wilson/The New York Times)
EditorialScott Phippen, stands amid some 30 million pounds of almonds remaining from his family firm?s last harvest, warehoused for want of means to ship them overseas, in Manteca, Calif., on April 6, 2022. (Rozette Rago/The New York Times)