EditorialThe homestyle seafood stir-fry, which combines whole silverfish with squid, jicama and garlic chive, served at Uncle Lou’s, on Mulberry Street in Manhattan’s Chinatown neighborhood, March 22, 2022. (Daniel Krieger/The New York Times)
EditorialThe chef Boonnum Thongngoen pounds chiles, limes and other aromatics in a mortar to make papaya salads and other cold dishes, at Thai Cook in Queens, Dec. 28, 2019. (Jenny Huang/The New York Times)