EditorialClockwise from top left: Marcus Samuelsson, the chef and owner; Franshelis Montalvo, the general manager; Farheen Jafarey, the head baker; and Fariyal Abdullahi, the executive chef, at Hav & Mar in New York, April 6, 2023. (Lanna Apisukh/The New York Times)
EditorialClockwise from top left: Marcus Samuelsson, the chef and owner; Franshelis Montalvo, the general manager; Farheen Jafarey, the head baker; and Fariyal Abdullahi, the executive chef, at Hav & Mar in New York, April 6, 2023. (Lanna Apisukh/The New York Times)
EditorialClockwise from top left: Marcus Samuelsson, the chef and owner; Franshelis Montalvo, the general manager; Farheen Jafarey, the head baker; and Fariyal Abdullahi, the executive chef, at Hav & Mar in New York, April 6, 2023. (Lanna Apisukh/The New York Times)
EditorialClockwise from top left: Marcus Samuelsson, the chef and owner; Franshelis Montalvo, the general manager; Farheen Jafarey, the head baker; and Fariyal Abdullahi, the executive chef, at Hav & Mar in New York, April 6, 2023. (Lanna Apisukh/The New York Times)