EditorialCiimnuai, a stir fry dish at Zogam Cafe that owner Stan Dang named after the legendary ancestral home of the Zomi people, in Tulsa, Okla., June 25, 2022. (Shane Brown/The New York Times)
EditorialThe homestyle seafood stir-fry, which combines whole silverfish with squid, jicama and garlic chive, served at Uncle Lou’s, on Mulberry Street in Manhattan’s Chinatown neighborhood, March 22, 2022. (Daniel Krieger/The New York Times)