EditorialChile crisp, a spicy-crunchy condiment originally from China’s Guizhou Province, seasons the tofu-and-vegetable filling in the dumplings and the accompanying dipping sauce, in New York on Jan. 22, 2021. (Christopher Simpson/The New York Times)
EditorialPhil Tulkoff, whose condiment company has been in family hands for 90 years, inside his office at Tulkoff Food Products in Baltimore, July 13, 2020. (Andrew Mangum/The New York Times)