EditorialShrimp balls rolled in puffed red yeast rice so they look like lychees at Juqi in Flushing, Queens, May 19, 2023. (Evan Sung/The New York Times)
EditorialBoudin balls, made with glass noodles instead of rice, come with anchovy aioli at Kjun in New York, Feb. 11, 2023. (Lanna Apisukh/The New York Times)
EditorialMitsuki Japanese Market, a small family business that sells Japanese groceries and onigiri (rice balls), in the Greenpoint neighborhood of Brooklyn on Jan. 28, 2023. (Yuvraj Khanna/The New York Times)