EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialElizabeth Peeples, left, and Stefanie Bassett, the owners of the Little Ram Oyster Co., raise their oyster cages from Gardiners Bay near Southhold, N.Y., May 16, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)