EditorialTai no kabutoni, or simmered sea bream head, at Uosan Sakaba, an izakaya on the far eastern side of Tokyo, May 2023. (James Whitlow Delano/The New York Times)
EditorialTai no kabutoni, or simmered sea bream head, at Uosan Sakaba, an izakaya on the far eastern side of Tokyo, May 2023. (James Whitlow Delano/The New York Times)
EditorialTai no kabutoni, or simmered sea bream head, at Uosan Sakaba, an izakaya on the far eastern side of Tokyo, May 2023. (James Whitlow Delano/The New York Times)