EditorialFrom left, Alessandro, 53, Maria Elena, 29, and Pierluigi, 49, the three children of Marco Roscioli, who took over L’Antico Forno in 1972, outside Salumeria Roscioli in Rome, June 7, 2023. (Alessandro Penso/The New York Times)
EditorialFrom left, Alessandro, 53, Maria Elena, 29, and Pierluigi, 49, the three children of Marco Roscioli, who took over L’Antico Forno in 1972, outside Salumeria Roscioli in Rome, June 7, 2023. (Alessandro Penso/The New York Times)
EditorialRigatoni al forno with cauliflower and broccoli rabe, bottom, and mozzarella with charred radicchio and salsa verde, center, in New York, Feb. 24, 2021. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh/The New York Times)