EditorialA worker removes leaves from zinfandel vines at the Green & Red Vineyard near St. Helena, Calif. on June 22, 2021. (Mike Kai Chen/The New York Times)
EditorialA worker removes leaves from zinfandel vines at the Green & Red Vineyard near St. Helena, Calif. on June 22, 2021. (Mike Kai Chen/The New York Times)