EditorialClockwise from top left, surrounded by salsas and other garnishes: cochinita pibil, barbacoa and birria tacos; birria served as a stew; lamb consomé at Under the Volcano in New York on March 24, 2021. (Cole Saladino/The New York Times)
EditorialAn order of tacos rojos at Las 7 Salsas Restaurante, one of the 20 or so places that have made Brownsville, Texas a haven for taco lovers on Jan. 27, 2020. (Callaghan O'Hare/The New York Times)