EditorialIvan Lesica, left, the maitre d’ and Sean Ricketts, work to put up the famous caricatures that surround the dining room of Sardi’s, in Manhattan on Nov. 17, 2021. (Sara Krulwich/The New York Times)
EditorialMaitre d’ Stani Visciano at Lina Stores a popular Italian restaurant that is once again finding itself fully booked, on Greek Street in London, Aug. 21, 2020. (Alexander Ingram/The New York Times)