EditorialFrozen collard greens, part of the bulk purchases in Marta Hurgin’s freezer, in Portsmouth, N.H., May 8, 2020. (Adam Glanzman/The New York Times)
EditorialCorned ham, collard greens and black-eyed peas at a dinner at Crook's Corner in Chapel Hill, N.C., Feb. 21, 2020. (Justin Cook/The New York Times)