EditorialFaith Stewart-Gordon at the Russian Tea Room, the elegant restaurant that she owned and presided over for nearly three decades, in New York in 1977. (Don Hogan Charles/The New York Times)
EditorialFrom top, dishes served at Flor: blini made from beremeal, an ancient strain of barley grown in Scotland; local trout roe; and a scallop garnished with Alexanders, a variant of parsley, in London, Jan. 25, 2020. (Ben Quinton/The New York Times)