The 醥 ngu th鈔 had a loose fit and sometimes had wide sleeves. Wearers could display their prosperity by putting on multiple layers of fabric; which at that time was costly.

The 醥 ngu th鈔 had two flaps sewn together in the back; two flaps sewn together in the front; and a "baby flap" hidden underneath the main front flap. The gown appeared to have two-flaps with slits on both sides; features preserved in the later ao dai. Compared to a modern ao dai; the front and back flaps were much broader and the fit looser. It had a high collar and was buttoned in the same fashion as a modern ao dai.