Encompassing a former royal palace; a wealth of temples and many other monuments; Durbar Square is Kathmandu's historic and spiritual centre. The square; after years of neglect; was renovated in 1972-75 in the Hanuman Dhoka Project; initiated after the ascension to the throne of King Birendra.

'Durbar'; or correctly darbar; means royal palace or royal court; but the locals prefer to call the square Hanuman Dhoka; 'Hanuman's Gate'; after the narrow palace gate which is guarded by a crimson-red figure of the monkey god Hanuman. The figure was set up in 1862 to protect the gate from ill luck and enemies of all sorts鈥攐r; as the Nepalese chronicles put it; from 'evil spirits; witches; and epidemics; such as smallpox'.

Hanuman is worshipped mainly on account of his bravery and strength; and has often been adopted by Hindu soldiers as their patron deity. In times gone by; fortresses were guarded by images of Hanuman hewn into their walls; and the kings of Kathmandu and Bhaktapur displayed Hanuman figures on their banners. Pictures From Asia Rainer Krack